The 2016 Reserva feels like a textbook classical reserva, not easy to find in a small producer. It's elegant and has high potential for aging. It has ripeness with freshness, power and elegance achieved through a soft vinification, but it's still powerful and has abundant, grainy tannins. They selected vineyards from the 1950s and 1960s with a warmer exposition, mostly Tempranillo with some 5% to 10% Graciano that gives depth and tension. They use fine American oak barrels that give it the style but without excess, looking for elegance. 7,380 bottles were filled in March 2019.

The 2014 Reserva is the wine they first produced with the idea to rescue the traditional Reserva (and also Gran Reserva) wines that were almost dying in the mid-1990s. And from the vintages I have tasted, I think this 2014, though not an easy harvest, is the one that best resembles the wines from yesteryear. Yes, they used some French oak, but they kept using American barrels. It's still young, lively and a little creamy, especially when tasted next to the Gran Reserva. It has a balsamic, ashy twist, a medium body and polished tannins. It should age nicely. It's mostly Tempranillo with 4% Graciano. 5,523 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2017.

The creamy and ripe 2011 Reserva is a traditional Rioja produced with Tempranillo and 4% Graciano, ripe, balsamic and intense. The palate reveals abundant, slightly dusty and rustic tannins that should welcome some food. 6,668 bottles were filled in April 2013.

The 2006 Reserva is a great modern traditional Rioja that reminds me of the style of wines like Valenciso, with balsamic aromas of incense, cigar box, leather and tar intermixed with subtle notes of blackberries and blueberries. The palate displays polished tannins, lively fruit and good balance. Drink 2014-2017. I found some inconsistency in the Miguel Merino portfolio and unfortunately both samples of Gran Reserva were corked. Imported by Siema Wines, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200; www.siemawines.com

The 2005 Reserva has a licorice and leather-tinged bouquet with touches of bacon fat and hung game. The palate is medium-bodied with dry, leathery tannins and gamey fruit. It has a pleasing, savory, classic finish with hints of mocha and dark chocolate. Drink now-2018. Located in the village of Briones in Rioja Alta, Bodegas Miguel Merino offer exemplary modern Rioja wine sourced from their own Tempranillo vines planted between 1931 and 1963 at an altitude of 550 meters above sea level. The Tempranillo vines are augmented by small plots of Mazuelo and Graciano that are occasionally bottled separately. The wine is then matured in a combination of new American, French and Hungarian oak. Importer: T. Edward Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504