The 2012 Gran Claustro, a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend with some 10% each of Syrah, Garnacha and Cari?ena matured in new French oak barrels for 16 months. The nose is mostly about the barrel, with some herbal hints and notes of ripeness hiding in the back. The palate shows grainy tannins and ends dry and with distinct bitterness. For fans of oaky reds. 3,500 bottles.

It seems like 2011 produced reds that took the character of the barrels too much, again with the 2011 Gran Claustro Tinto, a wine that I had in mind as more classically styled, but which feels as international, oak-smothered and extremely balsamic as the others. The palate has some warmth, with very ripe fruit and plenty of tannin. It is like the rest of this producer's offer. 4,007 bottles.

The 2009 Gran Claustro Tinto is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Garnacha and 15% Carinena from three parcels (Pont de Molins, La Garriga and Garbet). It is aged for 16 months in new Allier oak. It has a fresh, floral bouquet where, curiously, the Garnacha seems to be most expressive, offering dark plum, crushed strawberry and violet aromas. The medium-bodied palate is underpinned by fine, tensile tannins that lend it fine backbone that does not obstruct the ripe, pure dark plum, blackberry, bell pepper and saline flavours that coat the mouth. The grape varieties appear to be synchronized, lending the finish impressive freshness and focus. Patently, a lot of care has gone into this wine, which merits cellaring for three of four years. Drink 2015-2025. My first visit to Emporda was to Castillo Perelada, one of the driving forces behind the resurgence of viticulture in this region, where I undertook a comprehensive tasting of both present and past releases. Wine has been made at the Castillo since medieval times. Then in 1923, wealthy businessman Miguel Mateu bought the estate and he sought to revive winemaking tradition both here and in Emporda itself. I tasted the wines with his grandson Javier Suque. He explained how they are using satellite technology to map the vineyard, to such an extent that it made Bordeaux seem Luddite in comparison. It was an interesting set of wines with notable successes and others that missed the mark, and it was also fascinating to taste a vertical of the “Ex Ex” series of experimental wines that customers can subscribe to. The concept here is not to create the ultimate wine each year, but to try new things, toy with varieties and picking dates, to learn from experience. As you can see, the results I found were hit and miss, but I applaud someone who tries out new things and those that do subscribe are in for a ride. Following this, I was afforded an illuminating vertical of previous vintages, some of which have been rated by The Wine Advocate in previous issues. This vertical led me to one simple conclusion: Finca Garbet works best as a pure Syrah, as was the case in 2005 and 2007. The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon seems to knock it off balance and is distracting. I also tasted through a vertical of Castillo Perlada’s experimental “Ex Ex” series. The first two Ex Ex wines were sourced from the “Malaveina” vineyard. Importer: Perelada Comercial, NY; www.perladacomercial.com

The 2006 Gran Claustro is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Carinena, and 10% Garnatxa aged for 16 months in new French oak. Dark ruby red in color, it gives up aromas of wood smoke, graphite, lavender, soy, black cherry, and black currant. In the glass spice and black fruit flavors lead to a supple, balanced, smooth-textured wine that can be approached now although it will evolve for several years. Importer: Perelada USA; www.castilloperelada.com

The 2005 Gran Claustro is essentially the same blend as the 2005 and spent 14 months in new French oak. More deeply colored as well as structured, it will reward another 5-6 years of cellaring. It has a drinking window extending from 2015 to 2022. I was also presented with a vertical tasting of Gran Claustro dating back to 1993. They all display the vagaries of vintage but even the oldest are still in their prime years, so cellaring the young vintages appears to be a safe bet. Importer: Perelada USA; www.castilloperelada.com