The 2021 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Arinto, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13.1% alcohol. This now has an additional vineyard source that raises the average age of the vines to over 30 years. Showing good concentration of fruit, this fresh white seems solid, but it also does the freshness part very well too. Young and refined, it is an understated white in perfect balance. This may age better than indicated, but there won't be a lot of rewards for holding it, so I'd drink it young.

The 2020 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Arinto, from mostly 20+-year-old vines at 600 to 650 meters in altitude, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 12.9% alcohol. This has become a pretty consistent offering at a nice price. It has reasonable solidity, wonderful freshness and some exuberant fruit on the finish. It's a middle-of-the-road white, easy but reasonably serious, and always delicious in its youth. How it ages may be another question, but it should hold decently.

The 2019 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho, Arinto, from mostly 20+-year-old vines at 600 meters in altitude, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13% alcohol. An elegant and lovely Contraste, it's a little lean but fresh, pure and lively. The fruit is lifted by the acidity and the flavors linger nicely. This is enticing for its balance and its youthful freshness. The only thing that might hold this back is the question of whether it stays at this level for most of its useful life. Can it develop? I won't be surprised if it lasts a decade from the vintage date, more or less, but whether it is this good in 2025 might be a different question. We'll see. It drinks great now, and today you'll like it better than the score suggests. It will also be great next summer.

The 2018 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes, like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Arinto, from mostly 20-year-old vines at 600 meters, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13% alcohol. After a fairly fat 2017, this is a fresher and greener wine, closer to the Conceito style. That doesn't mean the 2017 was bad, but this is more typical, perhaps. It is a bit green this year, aromatic and herbaceous. I personally like this vibrant style more, but it won't be everyone's first choice. It should hold pretty well, but it isn't really intended to age, so dive in. It will be great in warm weather.

The 2017 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Arinto from mostly 20-year-old vines at 600 meters, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13.3% alcohol. This second wine has become a nice value and consistent overachiever. In a vintage that had its fair share of difficulties, how does it do this year? Granting that they are not all side by side, this year seems relatively rich for this level. It feels full in the mouth. However, it is harder to find the zing and zest I often see. It isn't too far off of the 2016 in style, but it particularly leans to emphasizing fruitiness and roundness as opposed to crispness and precision. It's pretty ripe this year. There are no herbaceous nuances. Overall, this has many merits. I won't be surprised if many prefer this incarnation, but I would've liked just a bit more focus and energy. It is still very good.