Now this is more like it. The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange has an introverted, rather broody bouquet with wet earth and woodland scents underneath the dark berry fruit. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry with sweet black cherry laced with Chinese five spice and sea salt. There is very fine depth on the finish here. There is just one barrel produced, whole bunch fruit completely destemmed by hand.

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière la Grange exhibited more undergrowth, tertiary aromas than the other premier crus, although it needed more cohesion to show through. The aromatics felt a bit...absent-minded? The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grippy tannin. It is a structured and masculine Chambolle, but it needed more finesse to redeem the finish. It kind of gets to the finish line albeit not in the most graceful fashion.

The 2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Derrière La Grange has quite a complex bouquet: red berry fruit here, woodland scents, a touch of field mushroom and gravel. It is a very absorbing set of aromatics that you keep nosing and nosing. The palate is very well balanced with vibrant red berry fruit, beautifully interwoven oak, fine tannin and wonderful poise towards the saline finish. This is a consummate Chambolle-Musigny destined to give a lot of pleasure and it will be delicious from start to finish, given 2-3 years in bottle.

The 2013 Chambolle Musigny Derriere la Grang, which comes from 0.36 hectares of vine and this year contains 10% whole bunch, has a more austere bouquet compared to les Charmes or les Plantes and demands more coaxing from the glass. It has a silky smooth texture, very feminine, and perhaps the most sensual of the domaine’s ‘13s, though I just prefer the mineralité expressed by the les Plantes on the finish. You cannot resist that texture though.

The ruby-colored 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Derriere La Grange (90% of its vines were planted in 1934 and the other 10% are 12 years old) displays an earthy, sweet cherry-scented nose. Medium-bodied and with an excellent density of tangy currant and black cherry fruit, this is a firm yet well-garnished wine. It reveals a long, flavorful, satiny finish. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2008. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191.