From the mid-slope portion of the lieu-dit of La Caille, from vines planted in the 1960s and '70s, the 2019 Condrieu les Chaillees de l'Enfer ratchets up the intensity over the entry-level Les Terrasses de l'Enfer. Rich, ripe notes of melon and apricot are joined by hints of spring flowers and toasted grain (this cuvée spends a year in a mix of foudre and barrique, 20% new). It's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and opulent, balanced by a long, spicy finish.

The 2017 Condrieu les Chaillees de l'Enfer offers up unusually subdued aromas of apricot and citrus. It's a reined-in vintage, showing ample tension on the medium to full-bodied palate and finishing velvety, with hints of crushed stone and pencil oak. Like the other 2017s from Vernay, it's about balance and focus more than flamboyance or power.

The 2016 Condrieu les Chaillees de l'Enfer spent 12 months in 25% new oak. It offers delicate, complex notes of toasted almond, orange blossom, apricot and pineapple. Medium to full-bodied, it's briny, fresh and long on the finish, with hints of crushed stone. This looks to have the ability to age several years, although there's certainly no need to delay gratification. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent results.