A blend of 90% Grenache from century-old vines, aged in concrete, with 10% Syrah, aged in used barriques, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Gallimardes is a black-fruited beauty, with notes of blackberries, black cherries, black licorice and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a lingering, spice-inflected finish, this is terrific stuff. Tasted twice (once blind), with the note reflecting the better bottle.

More tightly coiled than last year, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Gallimardes now seems more herbal than floral, with greenish streaks running through the crisp red berry fruit. A 90-10 blend of Grenache and Syrah from the lieu-dit les Gallimardes, the Syrah spent a year in new oak, while the Grenache aged in tank. It's full-bodied yet taut and racy, but it should relax in a couple of years and then drink well for at least a decade.

A blend of 90% Grenache (aged in tank) and 10% Syrah (aged in barrel), the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Gallimardes comes from the lieu-dit of the same name and includes some fruit from Grenache vines that are more than 100 years old. Cherry and raspberry fruit flow easily across the palate in this full-bodied, silky wine that shows great richness, depth and length without excess weight. It's a terrific effort.

Rich and velvety in texture, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Gallimardes is remarkable. From the estate's oldest vines, this full-bodied wine is close to 100% Grenache. It's loaded with ripe black cherries and hints of dried spices and possesses a nearly unstoppable finish. While supple enough to drink now, it should age well for up to two decades.