The 2020 Volnay Clos de la Cave is especially good, bursting with aromas of sweet cherries and plums mingled with orange zest, rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, it's pure and precise, with a cool core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, mineral finish. From vines just below the tree line, and thus among the first climats to benefit from the cooling influence of late-afternoon shade, this is one of the most ethereal wines in the range.

The 2019 Volnay Clos de la Cave is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, peonies, rose petals and blood orange. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and enveloping, with melting tannins, lively acids and a vibrant core of bright, perfumed fruit, it concludes with a long, mineral finish.

The 2018 Volnay Clos de la Cave is showing beautifully in bottle, and Bouley observes that the fact that—despite its prime exposition—this site is in the shade by around 6 p.m. every evening complements its calcium-rich soils to lend it a notably ethereal profile. Wafting from the glass with scents of sweet berries, peonies, mandarin rind, raw cocoa and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and perfumed, with a bright spine of acidity, refined tannins and a lively, mineral finish.

The 2017 Volnay Clos de la Cave is lovely, bursting from the glass with aromas of red berries, spices and potpourri, followed by a medium-bodied, elegantly satiny palate that's nicely concentrated despite its giving, charming profile, framed by melting tannins. This lieu-dit boasts light but surprisingly deep soils and is located on the hillside behind Bouley's winery.