More expressive than the Meursault Charmes but also more incisive, the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumaux bursts with aromas of spring flowers, white currants, citrus oil, green apple and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids and chalky grip on the finish, this is already showing well.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumaux is a promising bottle in the making, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of mandarin oil, crisp peach and green orchard fruit. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a more delicate and less fleshy profile than the Meursault Charmes, concluding with a pure and chalky finish. It's a lovely rendition of Les Chalumaux.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux, which lies just next to Blagny, has a well-defined, precise bouquet that opens in the glass to reveal attractive smoke and granite aromas. The palate is crisp and focused on the entry with touches of apricot and tangerine. There is a fine lift on the finish that is lively and long in the mouth. This is a very satisfying Puligny that I suspect will offer much pleasure in its youth. Thierry and Pascal have been running this domaine since they took over the running of what was known as Domaine Joseph Matrot in 2000. They farm just under 20 hectares of vine, including a choice selection of premier crus in the Cote de Beaune. Though I did not have the opportunity to taste a full selection of their latest release, I was suitably impressive by the four wines that were presented in London. Importers: Bacchus Importers Limited, Baltimore, MD; tel. 800-525-9699

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux is graced with considerable finesse in its citrus, white flowers and licorice. The Chalumeaux is one of the more restrained wines here. As such, it is quite a bit less overt and forward, but instead relies on its class and mid-palate length. There is a lot to like here. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Thierry Matrot told me he thinks 2010 is one of the greatest vintages of the last 30 years. Yields came in around 20-25 hectoliters per hectare, which is tiny by any measure. Batonnage gives the Matrot wines quite a bit of textural richness when they are young, along with the impression they are built for serious aging, but in my experience the wines need to be enjoyed within a few years after release. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010 Meursault Perrieres for this article, although I hope to taste it soon. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux is another pretty, textured white layered with expressive fruit. It shows excellent brightness in its white stone fruit, pears and flowers. The aromas and flavors flow gracefully to the inviting, focused finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802