The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes unwinds in the glass with scents of pear, apple, oatmeal, fresh mint and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, there's depth and concentration here, with the lively acidity to balance it. This is a Charmes that will drink well young.

Matrot's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes was still a little shut down, having been bottled last week, but with coaxing it offers up a textbook nose of dried white flowers, fresh pears, buttered apples and mint. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny textured and pure with brisk acids and a deep, tight-knit core.

Smoke, slate, super-ripe apricots and butter are some of the many notes that are woven together in the 2010 Meursault Charmes. A generous, large-scaled wine, the Charmes flows with tons of textural richness and body all the way through to the seamless finish. The Charmes is easily one of the more intense wines in the lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Thierry Matrot told me he thinks 2010 is one of the greatest vintages of the last 30 years. Yields came in around 20-25 hectoliters per hectare, which is tiny by any measure. Batonnage gives the Matrot wines quite a bit of textural richness when they are young, along with the impression they are built for serious aging, but in my experience the wines need to be enjoyed within a few years after release. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010 Meursault Perrieres for this article, although I hope to taste it soon. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The estate’s 2009 Meursault Charmes emerges from the glass with layers of perfumed, expressive fruit. This is a very pretty, understated wine graced with plenty of nuance and personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802