The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot unfurls in the glass with notes of pear, honeycomb, white flowers, freshly baked bread, ripe cantaloupe melon and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's elegantly muscular, with a deep core of fruit, racy acids and a long, chalky finish.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot is one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of beeswax, Anjou pear, petrol, white flowers and subtle spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, pure and tangy with a tight-knit, nicely concentrated core and a penetrating and saline finish.

Perhaps the 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot just wasn't showing well when I tasted it from barrel, but despite its attractive bouquet of lime, dried white flowers, toasted nuts and beeswax, it appears to lack some depth and intensity. Well-balanced and beautifully made, I suspect these 15-year-old vines simply struggled to recover from the challenges of the growing season.

The 2015 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot has a gorgeous bouquet with yellow flowers piercing the citrus fruit, touches of lime flower and lemon curd emerging with continued aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, lively with orange rind and melon notes, the acidity lending this Chassagne fine edginess and energy. It remains quite linear, refusing to fan out on the finish, but that does not detract from a well-crafted and delicious wine.

The 2014 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot is a new offering from Pierre-Yves from a 0.5-hectare parcel of 15-year-old vines. It has a reserved, nutmeg and grilled almond-scented nose that just needs to develop a little more intensity. The palate is clean and tensile on the entry, with a hint of sour lemon mixed with rosewater and peach; it is delicate and charming, nothing overly complex here (perhaps due to the relatively younger vines), but there is impressive persistence on the finish.