From one hectare of vines planted in the 1960s, the 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille is the insider's choice chez Rapet, and a wine I purchased for my own cellar. Offering up aromas of ripe citrus fruit, acacia honey, wet stones and crisp yellow apple, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and beautifully precise, with superb energy, good concentration and a long, mineral finish. Though it isn't as structured or muscular as the Corton-Charlemagne, it nips at its heels.