The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain is also promising, unwinding in the glass with notes of peach, citrus oil, honeycomb and flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, chalky and incisive, though on this visit it was a little tight-knit, having been sulfured shortly before I tasted it.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain offers crisp Granny Smith apples and dewy pasture scents on the nose, reserved at first but opening nicely in the glass. The palate is fresh and crisp with a pleasant fatness in the mouth. It is a Champs Gain laden with both weight and presence, hints of walnut and spice towards the finish that like the La Garenne, just needs a little more energy and tension to evolve.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Champ Gain has a reserved and elegant bouquet, hints of citrus lemon and oyster shell reluctantly emerging in the glass, timid but gaining confidence with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more exotic, by which I mean prettier with passion fruit and apricot, but still with fine mineralité. The acidity here drives this Puligny along with a twist of bitter lemon on the saline finish. This should give much pleasure over the next 10-15 years.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gain, from their parcel just before you arrive at La Truffières, has a pretty orange sorbet and apricot-scented bouquet: vivacious if not as intense as the Hameau de Blagny ’13. The palate is clean and crisp with razor-sharp acidity, a little “pointed” towards the rocky finish, when you expect it to fan out, although I am sure by the time of bottling it will have developed more substance. Still, this is a very assured Champs Gain in the making.

The 2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain is very reserved and mineral-driven on the nose that appears to have closed up since bottling. The palate is citrus-fresh on the entry with well-integrated oak, just a slight honeyed note toward the hazelnut finish that lingers long in the mouth, that tang of dried orange peel begging you to take another sip. This is a superb Puligny-Montrachet from the Domaine but it needs a couple more years bottle age.