The 2010 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico shows a dark garnet color and thick aromas of pressed cherry and blackberry. Like Begali’s other wines, this Recioto manages to reign in the overt sweetness and is never cloying. Those dried fruit and prune aromas are abundantly present, but elegantly contained. The close is chewy, rich, soft and enduring. Drink 2014-2020. If you can name but two producers in Valpolicella (I’m betting they are Dal Forno and Quintarelli), it’s now time to add a third: Lorenzo Begali. Lorenzo and his children Giordano and Tiliana make the most exciting wines in the region today. These are inaugural reviews (Begali has never been reviewed by The Wine Advocate). Visiting this small estate, tall and lanky Giordano will win you over with his impassioned dedication to the traditional Pergola Veronese growing system. He and his father believe that overhead trellising is the secret to making quality wine and controlling yields. Having now tasted this beautiful collection of new releases, I am a true Begal-iever. Importers: Siema Llc., www.siemawines.com; Vignaioli Imports, www.vignaioliamerica.com; Un Po Pazzo, www.unpopazzo.com