The 2010 Ebo is 50-40-10 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. There’s a wild, almost rustic personality here that is really quite charming. Jammy red berry aromas are laced with a playful herbal accent of rosemary and bramble. The wine is also more compact than you might initially expect given the darkness and density of its appearance. Gritty tannins mark the close. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. The man behind Bellavista, Contadi Castaldi (both in Franciacorta) and Tenuta La Badiola in Maremma, entrepreneur Vittorio Moretti engaged the talent of architect Mario Botta to build Petra near Suvereto in 2001. Italy’s era of the designer winery was suddenly born. The monumental building is inspired by “stone in motion,” thus the name Petra. Importer: Terra Moretti Trading USA; www.tmtrading-usa.com

The 2009 Ebo is a dark, brooding wine loaded with camphor, tar, licorice, smoke and black cherries. In 2010 the Ebo comes across as especially masculine and brooding in its personality. Layers of fruit power through to an intense finish laced with hints of espresso, mocha and new leather. Ebo is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese aged in one- and two-year-old French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024. I rarely hear Petra mentioned in a discussion of the best wines and wineries from the Tuscan coast, but year after year the wines are reliably outstanding and fairly priced for the neighborhood. The house style is one of bold, exuberant wines. Frankly, I am not sure it is possible to make anything but that type of wine in this part of Maremma. Petra is part of Vittorio Moretti’s empire, which is best known for its crown jewel, Bellavista. In 2009 the estate decided not to make their top selection, the Petra Rosso. At a time when virtually all wineries bottle their flagships pretty much every year, it is refreshing to see a winery willing to skip a vintage it deems less important. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106

The 2008 Ebo (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot) shows excellent delineation in its aromas and flavors. Espresso, grilled herbs, licorice and violets take shape beautifully in the glass, adding further layers of complexity to the dark fruit. The tannins are a bit firm at present, but they should start to soften over the next year or two. This is a beautifully polished wine from Petra. Ebo is aged partly in steel and partly in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106

The 2007 Ebo is even better. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot, it flows from the glass with layers of round, harmonious fruit that caress the palate in stunning style. There isn’t a hard edge in sight in this generous, dark wine. Smoke, crushed rocks, violets and licorice add complexity on the finish. The Ebo was aged partly in oak and partly in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Petra, located in Suvereto, on the Tuscan coast, made two of my favorite wines in this report. Importer: Blavod Extreme, Franklin, TN; tel. (615) 771-9111

The 2006 Ebo (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot) is a big, fat wine loaded with dark fruit, grilled herbs, tar and smoke, all of which are framed by underlying notes of minerality. The finish is long, clean and harmonious. This is a gorgeous wine, particularly for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Petra is based in Suvereto, one of the warmer microclimates in Tuscany’s Maremma. In 2006, the region enjoyed a spectacular vintage, as is evident in these fine new releases. The Merlot Quercegobbe in particular is a gem. Importer: Blavod Extreme, Franklin, TN; tel. (615) 771-9111