With fruit from a hillside vineyard that enjoys good sunshine and steady ventilation, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Buriano is an immediately expressive and intense wine. Black fruit, earth, tobacco and spice pop from the bouquet. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and ages in a combination of barrique and tonneaux for 15 months. The bouquet shows a dark side with some super rich fruit and blackberry preserves. This is a rich, full-bodied red. 7,000 bottles were released.

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Buriano opens to a thick and meaty appearance backed by ripe blackberry and blackcurrant aromas. This is a rich and full-bodied red with lots of layering and depth. The wine is a bit more streamlined in terms of palate, and that's where some of the shortcomings of the vintage are most evident. Pair it with a homemade meatloaf. Some 7,500 bottles were made.

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Buriano speaks of varietal expressiveness but with a distinctly Tuscan accent. It possesses remarkable concentration and depth in its dark fruit, spices, flowers and licorice, all supported by an unmistakable sense of Tuscan acidity and structure. A persistent, beautifully nuanced finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Buriano reveals a dark, baritone core of fruit, along with shades of grilled herbs, tobacco, leather and earthiness that add complexity and depth. There is a wonderful sense of centeredness and polish to the Buriano I find compelling. The oak is very nicely balanced as well. This could use another few years in bottle, but is already showing beautifully, with plenty of upside potential for the future. Interestingly, there is little varietal character here; the 2005 Buriano comes across as closer to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. It is strikingly beautiful just the same. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. This is a flat-out great set of wines from Rocca di Castagnoli. The estate releases its wines a year or more later than most, so these are current vintages in the market. Pricing remains exceedingly fair considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2004 Buriano (Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals plenty of varietal character, as layers of plums, menthol, grilled herbs, tar and graphite come together. This deeply layered, powerful wine needs further time in bottle but its balance is exceptional. If the tannins soften, this wine might very well merit a higher score, as it occasionally shows hints of even greater expressiveness. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898