The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Buriano reveals a dark, baritone core of fruit, along with shades of grilled herbs, tobacco, leather and earthiness that add complexity and depth. There is a wonderful sense of centeredness and polish to the Buriano I find compelling. The oak is very nicely balanced as well. This could use another few years in bottle, but is already showing beautifully, with plenty of upside potential for the future. Interestingly, there is little varietal character here; the 2005 Buriano comes across as closer to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. It is strikingly beautiful just the same. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. This is a flat-out great set of wines from Rocca di Castagnoli. The estate releases its wines a year or more later than most, so these are current vintages in the market. Pricing remains exceedingly fair considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898