The 2010 Baffonero definitely steals the show. This pure expression of Merlot presents enormous softness and richness in the form of black cherry, chocolate and exotic spice. The wine shows impressive endurance and elegantly textured tannins. This is one to keep in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Rocca di Frassinello is Paolo Panerai’s Maremma property that boasts a landmark winery built by famed architect Renzo Piano. The wines presented this year showed some inconsistencies, especially the ones from the hot 2011 vintage. Importer: Vias Imports; www.viaswine.com

The 2009 Baffonero is superb in this vintage. It bursts onto the palate with an exotic array of plums, blackberries, French oak, spices, violets and licorice, all of which wrap around the palate with notable intensity. Baffonero keeps getting better with each passing vintage, but in 2009 it appears everything has come together. Tar, smoke, violets and licorice wrap around the muscular, jammy finish. With a little more polish, Baffonero could very well be an exceptional wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is another strong set of wines from proprietor Paolo Panerai and long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai. I find it interesting that Panerai pursues a much more refined approach at Castellare, his legacy Tuscan winery, than at Rocca di Frassinello, where the wines are made in a more full-throttle style that pushes the edge of ripeness. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200