The 2011 Poggio alla Guardia is extremely dark and chewy with button mushroom, cured meat and wet earth. The bouquet is slightly heavy and disjointed and the wine feels sluggish in the mouth. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Rocca di Frassinello is Paolo Panerai’s Maremma property that boasts a landmark winery built by famed architect Renzo Piano. The wines presented this year showed some inconsistencies, especially the ones from the hot 2011 vintage. Importer: Vias Imports; www.viaswine.com

The 2010 Poggio alla Guardia is a relatively simple, accessible wine with lovely juiciness. Sweet red cherries, tobacco, dried flowers and herbs meld together nicely in this medium-bodied, refined red. The aromas are a bit faded, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This is another strong set of wines from proprietor Paolo Panerai and long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai. I find it interesting that Panerai pursues a much more refined approach at Castellare, his legacy Tuscan winery, than at Rocca di Frassinello, where the wines are made in a more full-throttle style that pushes the edge of ripeness. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2009 Poggio alla Guardia is the estate’s entry-level wine, and is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Layers of radiant, expressive fruit caress the palate, followed by floral overtones, spices, sweet herbs and licorice. Sweet, silky tannins support the pliant, open fruit through to the finish. Poggio alla Guardia is 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Sangiovese, aged in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is a bit of a Renaissance man. Panerai publishes Milano Finanza, Italy’s equivalent of Barrons (for which he also writes one of that country’s most widely read editorial columns), publishes a number of other more lifestyle oriented magazines and has a joint venture with CNBC, to list a few of his business interests. Oh, and he makes pretty good wines, too. Since the 1970s Panerai and his family have owned Castellare, one of the leading estates in Chianti Classico. More recently, Panerai has set his sights on making first-rate wines in Maremma through this joint venture with the Rothschild family. Rocca di Frassinello is a young winery, and the best is clearly yet to come.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2008 Poggio alla Guardia, the entry-level wine from Rocca di Frassinello, is impressive in this vintage. Dark plums, chocolate, spices and grilled herbs come to life effortlessly. Clean mineral notes frame the finish and confer an attractive element of freshness. This unoaked blend of 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Sangioveto delivers the goods and then some. The 2008 is the best vintage of Poggio alla Guardia yet. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Poggio alla Guardia opens with tart, bright aromas of white cherry and forest berry. There’s a touch of white almond at the end that lends a bitter touch.——M.L.(10/1/2011)—— 87