Solid vermentino. Pickled lemon, quince and kumquat. The mid-palate, expansive and juicy, before a salty rail of phenolics clips the finish to impart a whiff of textural intrigue. Very good everyday drinking. Drink now.

The unoaked 2017 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Monteoro is a fragrant and luminous white wine from the hills in the northern part of the island, not too far from Italy's largest cork forests and suppliers. The bouquet here opens to citrus, pear and some tangy tropical fruit, inviting a savory scampi dish. The wine is a bit thicker around the middle, and I suspect this must be due to the heat and drought experienced in this vintage. Some 80,000 bottles were released.

This is one of those irresistible white wines from Italy that makes you want to linger longer at the table and possibly order a second bottle. The 2016 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Monteoro is absolutely refreshing, vibrant and crisp. It is light and fresh with a lean and simple mouthfeel. Hey, the approach works wonders, and you can't beat that low price point. Drink it up over the next year.

You’ll get granite notes here and crushed mineral backed by creamy apricot and peach. The wine rests on the lees to achieve better structure and richness: pair it with shellfish or poultry.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 87