This is a blend of Terrano and Merlot from the unexplored Carso corner of Friuli that you'll want to try with slices of a special Slovenian sausage called the kranjska klobasa, if you can find it. The Zidarich 2013 Ruje opens to a dark garnet color with earthy and nutty aromas that lift first from the bouquet. This is a mid-weight wine that makes ample room for the natural acidity and freshness of the grapes, intermingled with the distinctive minerality and crushed sandstone that comes with this special territory. It should be interesting to see how this wine holds up 10 years from now.

An 80/20 blend of Merlot and Terrano, the 2010 Ruje opens to dark and heavy aromas of black pepper and ripe fruit. There is a slightly meaty aroma of saddle leather or animal that might well worsen with time. This is an offbeat wine for sure with generous layers of tobacco, licorice, dried cherry and balsam herb followed by a thin and slightly astringent mouthfeel.

The 2005 Ruje (80% Merlot, 20% Terrano) is intruiging. Despite the predominance of Merlot in the blend, the personality of Terrano can’t be denied and at times dominates the wine’s personality. Black cherries, juniper berries and sweet herbs take shape in the glass as the wine opens up. Early hints of tertiary complexity have begun to develop in bottle, adding further character and nuance. There is more than enough acidity to make me think the 2005 will age well. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. GPS isn’t much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243