The fresh earth-scented 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet Champs-Gain is medium-bodied, with laser-like clarity. Crisp pears, minerals, and gravel can be discerned in its lace-like yet flavorful core. Projected maturity: now-2007.
Importer: Chateau & Estate Wine Co., New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.