The 1990 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra has developed a bit since I last tasted it about two years ago. Here the fruit is decidedly richer and more opulent than the 1989, but the early signs of maturity have also set in with slightly more advanced notes of coffee beans, mint and violets. The finish is long, powerful and utterly convincing. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. This stunning set of wines shows how far ahead of the pack Domenico Clerico was 20 years ago. Then again, Clerico has the privilege of working with some of the very finest vineyards in the world. Winemaking was decidedly rustic at the time, as these wines were fermented in tanks outside Clerico’s house, the site of his current cellar. No matter, the wines are splendid, even today. The 1989 and 1990 Ciabot Mentin Ginestra were aged in 700-liter French oak barrels, while the 1990 Pajana is the first Barolo Clerico aged in the smaller 225-liter barrels he now uses for all of his Barolos.