One notch down on the intensity ladder is the 2009 Barolo Ciabot Mentin. Less obvious and definitely more flirtatious, this gorgeous wine playfully dangles subtle hints of licorice, dark fruit, anisette and Middle Eastern spice in front of your nose. They morph and transform into something new and unexpected with each swirl of the glass. There’s enough flesh here to keep the wine grounded, but there’s also enough tonic freshness to keep it from feeling heavy. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300