Very good is the extraordinarily complex 1982 Barolo Ginestra. A bouquet of dried herbs, smoked meats, tobacco, truffles, and earthy black fruits soars from the glass. Full-bodied, rustic and animalistic, this is a thick, earthy-styled, fully mature Barolo. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Clerico is one of Piedmont's modernist winemakers, but based on how this vintage has evolved, one could say that some of the criticism of the modern Piedmontese winemaking school (that suggests the wines do not age well) is off target. Importers: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 and Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300