Dusty and ripe-smelling, with a competent bouquet that blends patented regional schist along with black fruits, burnt toast and charcoal. Once it opens up, it’s neither dark nor overly intense. The palate is broad, generous, friendly and carries nice black-fruit flavors, coffee and freshness. Good right away, but should age well for another couple of years. Drink now through 2010.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 89