A 100% Sangiovese cuvee aged in one-third new French oak (it's all raised in cask), the 1998 Palazzo Altesi reveals terrific aromatics, including violets, cigar box, smoke, black currants, and kirsch liqueur. It is dense, rich, and ripe, with moderate tannin as well as a long, full-bodied finish that offers hints of mocha and chocolate. This is a complex wine to drink over the next 7-8 years, although it may last longer. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620