Perhaps I caught the 1997 Brunello di Montalcino at a bad time, but it appeared very tannic with a hard finish. Interesting aromatics reveal notes of wild herbs, red fruits, earth, and cedar, but the tough finish reveals intrusive tannin. We'll see how it ages, but I'll give it the benefit of the doubt ... for now. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Big and toasty red, with raspberry, black licorice and smoky aromas. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a long, smoky, berry, toasted oak aftertaste. Very New World in style. Best after 2004. 2,415 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

Flavio Fanti’s tiny 12-acre vineyard is treated almost like his backyard, with a scrupulous attention to detail and now a dense planting that has definitely improved the quality of the wines. The 1997 shows modern, spicy wood, violet and rose aromas. The palate is rich, firm and dry, but with attractive bitter chocolate and licorice flavors. The new wood shows through but never throws the wine off balance. ——R.V.(8/1/2002)—— 90