The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino, a deep and dark ruby/garnet, presents ample raspberry and black fruit together with coffee, caramel, and smoky tones on the nose. The oak is a bit more perceptible on the palate, with coconut and cloves in a context of medium weight, good focus, continuity, and finesse. Only a slight dryness on the finish prevents the score from going higher, but this is one of the characteristics of the vintage. Drink: 2005-2012. Baldassare Filippo Fanti is president of the Brunello producers’ consortium; more importantly for readers, he is also the owner of some excellent vineyards just to the north of Castelnuovo d’Abbate, prime territory for fine Brunello.Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620