The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino, good as it is, is rather perplexing. A dark ruby in color with much black currant fruit, mocha, and vanilla on the nose, its sizeable and supple body and its lengthy, warm, and velvety finish are those of a high class wine, but not a wine which seems to have much to do with Sangiovese and Montalcino. Frankly, it is surprising to see a producer with this institutional position release a wine of this type. Drink: 2005-2018. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; tel. (212) 255-9414

Very dark in color, with aromas of raisin, blackberry jam, espresso and nuts. Full-bodied, with loads of powerful fruit and big, velvety tannins. Superconcentrated, layered and dense, with the structure of a great 1945 claret, such as Latour. Still a blockbuster. Spellbinding. Needs a little time.—'99 Brunello blind retrospective (2009). Best after 2012. 3,080 cases made, 450 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

Rich, dark and lush, with liqueur-like aromas wafting upward from a sea of purple. An obvious entry into the “modern” category of Brunello. There’s jammy, mouthcoating fruit and only modest acidity. Detractors may find it heavy and bruising, but fans will adore its weight and creaminess. ——M.S.(6/1/2004)—— 92