The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino tastes just like it did when I tasted it from barrel two years ago. It possesses a plump, juicy personality, with plenty of up-front super-ripe fruit but no real complexity or length to speak of. Anything resembling varietal expression is far off in the distance. Fanti’s Brunello is the most confused and confusing wine coming out of Montalcino. Three bottles tasted with consistent notes. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620