The sweet nose of grilled cherries, caramel, thyme, and tobacco of the 1999 Carignano del Sulcis Terre Brune is followed by packed flavors, very solid structure, dense texture, and velvety ripeness on the warm, intense, and alcoholic finish. The wine will take a bit of time to come around, and should be drunk between 2006 and 2016. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

This Sardinian red is a bit rough and raw despite its age, yet it’s also quite masculine and enjoyable, a traditional wine in a field of newcomers. The fruit is candied and ripe, veering toward sugary. A finish full of raisin, butter and carob offers a lot to chew on. Needs time to breathe; consider decanting. ——M.S.(11/15/2004)—— 88