The estate's 2003 Carignano del Sulcis Terre Brune (95% Carignano, 5% Bovaleddu) is even better. It boasts an irresistibly wild expression of smokiness, earth, new leather, spices and dark, jammy fruit. Made in a full-bodied style, it reveals outstanding length and a pretty note of sweetness that lingers on the finish. It spent 16 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Santadi is yet another of the Sardinian properties making compelling wines of notable personality. The estate is located in Sulcis, which lies in the southwest corner of the island. Amazingly, many of the vineyards date from pre-phylloxera times. Winemaking is overseen by Giacomo Tachis. In addition to its top bottlings, Santadi also makes a group of terrific value-priced wines which I recently reviewed in my article on Best Buys from Italy available at www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Santadi’s Terre Brune is a wine that sets the bar for the region it represents: in this case, the island of Sardinia. The hot 2003 vintage delivers loads of red fruit and cherry that borders on cherry comfiture. The wine’s color is deep garnet with ruby highlights and background aromas include leather, cigar box, wet soil and exotic spice. Made with Carignano and 5% Bonaleddu and aged 16 months in barrique.——M.L.(2/1/2008)—— 91