The 2000 Condrieu Clos Boucher is serious as well as concentrated, exotic, full-bodied, and luxuriously fruited. It is one of the four or five finest efforts of the appellation. It is a barrel-fermented Condrieu, with 70% spending time in barriques. This offering is significantly better than the 1999. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. This is a good commercial example. The significant difference in quality between the outstanding 1999 northern Rhone vintage and the above average yet essentially correct 2000 is dramatically evidenced in Delas's wines. The 2000 red offerings reveal charming ripeness, but also the vintage's softness, lightness, and lack of depth. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.

This wine comes from a vineyard next to the legendary Chateau Grillet in the southern part of the Condrieu appellation. It manages to combine the opulence and richness of ripe Viognier with a refreshing acidity. Apricots dominate the taste, while spices and a touch of wood give it extra interest. ——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 90