Delas does a fine job with Condrieu with their top wine, the 2005 Condrieu Clos Boucher, one of the most profound Condrieus of the vintage. Grown in pure granite soils, this wine always has a striking minerality and a big, sweet nose of honeysuckle, peach, apricot, and litchi, with some crushed stony notes in the background. Full-bodied with terrific acidity, this is a mouthfilling Condrieu to drink over the next 2-3 years. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000