While very good, this classic Condrieu must take a back seat to the 4,000-bottle cuvee of 2009 Condrieu Clos Boucher, which ranks alongside Guigal's Condrieu La Doriane. The Clos Boucher possesses a light gold color as well as a stunning bouquet of marmalade, apricot jam, white flowers, lychee nuts and honeysuckle. A rare, extraordinary minerality gives a laser-like focus to this enormously endowed white wine. It admirably demonstrates why Condrieu can offer such a singular drinking experience. Under the inspired leadership of winemaker/administrator Jacques Grange, who has carte blanche authority from the proprietors, the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm, Delas has been on a fabulous qualitative roll for over a decade. They have enjoyed some great successes, so it is hard to say 2009 may be the magnum opus of Jacques Grange, but it certainly looks fabulous. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

A lush, flattering style, with creamed peach, melon and ginger notes laced with toasted almond and brioche hints that add weight and mouthfeel through the lengthy finish. Very ripe, but stylish and pure. Not imported into the U.S. Drink now through 2011. -JM