The opaque purple-colored 1998 Barbera d'Alba Gallina (a top Barbaresco vineyard outside Neive) was aged in 100% new oak. It offers a glorious perfume of chocolate, cedar, blackberries, cherry liqueur and smoke. This massive yet well-balanced, layered wine is explosive. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411