Boroli’s 2004 Barolo is a pretty, fragrant wine. It offers nice up-front intensity in its fruit, but then tails off a bit on the mid-palate. With air, notes of leather, spices and toasted oak develop, adding further complexity. A few years of bottle age should help this fruit-driven Barolo integrate its oak. This is a successful effort at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2010 -2018. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

It’s hard to find Barolo under $40 and this base Barolo from Silvano and Elena Boroli in Castiglione Falletto delivers all the sophistication of the territory at an attractive price point. Pretty aromas include forest floor, wild berry, leather, spice, mineral, ash and dried herbs. The wine is tight and slightly astringent with a long menthol finish. Drink 2015 to 2020.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 91