Deep garnet-purple in color, the 1999 Hill of Grace presents fragrant notes of warm blackberries and black cherries with hints of menthol, dried thyme and sage, licorice, dark chocolate and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and powerful, it has firm, chewy tannins, crisp acid and a long finish. It is still very youthful in the mouth with lots of flavor layers. It is drinking well now and should continue to cellar through 2035+. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

On the nose, the first aromas are of wheat bread, and a stably-animal character; after a few minutes in the glass, sweet plum and a little caramel steps in. I can’t use the descriptors “subtle,” “l(fā)ovely, chalky tannins” and “gorgeous, juicy fruit” enough. Finishes long and juicy, with those lovely, chalky tannins, plus caramel, mocha and mint flavors. ——D.T.(5/1/2004)—— 96