Here’s an affordable Bierzo red that earns big points for its straightforward, no-nonsense accessibility and balance. The bouquet offers ample minerality, a sprinkle of burnt toast and friendly red fruit. The palate is moderately deep and pure, with spice, pepper and vanilla on the finish. A fine reflection of the region and the 2005 harvest.——M.S.(11/1/2007)—— 90