I liked Cantenac Brown's 1997, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Whether it is the estate's terroir or the winemaking style, Cantenac Brown tends to be a stern, tannic wine, but the softness of the 1997 vintage has given this effort plenty of charm and precociousness. The color is a dark ruby/purple, and the wine offers up sweet black raspberry/cassis fruit intermixed with licorice, underbrush, and oaky aromas. The wine is medium-bodied, with a supple texture, good purity, and a low acid, plump finish. It could turn out to be one of the better Cantenac Browns from recent vintages, as well as a candidate for an upper eighty point rating if it continues to develop well. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2014.
(No tasting note was provided in Issue 128. We have instead included the text of the tasting note from Issue 116)