From a vintage with record heat, the 2003 Cirsion is purple/black in color. On the nose, the wine offers roasted herbal aromas, forest floor, blackberry, and licorice notes. More structured than the 2001, on the palate it is dense and sweet with plenty of power but not the subtlety of the latter vintage. It will continue to evolve for another 5-6 years and offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2028. Bodegas Roda is a family-owned winery in Rioja that was founded in 1987. The winery was completed in 1991, and the first commercial vintage was 1992. Three tiers of wine have been produced, Roda, Roda I, and Cirsion, all from the estate’s 17 parcels of vines, each of which is vinified separately. No wine is made from vines less than 30 years of age. Roda I focuses on the dark fruit side of the spectrum, while Cirsion is a selection of the best vines within 4 of the 17 blocks. This luxury cuvee is produced only in good years; 2002 was not produced, and 2008 will be skipped over as well. Beginning with the 2008 vintage, Roda will be releasing an as yet to be named entry-level wine designed to be more forward and appealing to younger wine drinkers. A barrel sample was very pleasant and is likely to sell for under $20. In addition, Roda has begun a project in Ribera del Duero. I tasted barrel samples of 2008 and 2009 of this yet to be named wine, and they revealed plenty of promise. Importer: Kobrand, New York, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

My favorite effort here is the 2003 Cirsion. Boasting the most saturated ruby/purple color along with a provocative nose of acacia flowers, black currants, sweet cherries, spice, and a touch of new oak, it is opulent, fleshy, and rich with a long finish. Enjoy this terrific 2003 over the next 5-7 years.Bodegas Roda was in the process of changing importers at the time of publication.

Concentrated, lush and powerful, with ripe fruit flavors of blackberry and cassis framed by toasty, coffee oak and backed by big but well-integrated tannins. Stays fresh, with mineral and floral notes emerging on the finish. Modern in style. Drink now through 2013. 580 cases made, 500 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Fewer than 600 cases of this silky giant were made, but the best rarely comes in quantity. This is a ripe, weighty wine with earth and vanilla notes supporting cassis, black cherry and fresh-roasted coffee aromas and flavors. The feel is stacked and the finish very long. Tannic but not aggressive; a huge success from a broiling-hot vintage. ——W.E.(12/22/2011)—— 94