The 2004 Cirsion is a different kettle of fish, as it should be given the price. It is becoming clear that 2004 was a great vintage in Rioja and this wine is truly special. Dark ruby/purple in color, it exhibits a stunning nose of acacia flowers, black cherry, black currant, and spice box. This is followed by a rich, opulent, powerful wine which manages to retain a velvety palate-feel and superb elegance. There is a splendid integration of oak, tannin and acidity and the structure for 4-6 years of further development. Drink this terrific Rioja over the next 12-15 years. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Lively and graceful, this focused red delivers cherry and black raspberry flavors wrapped in toasty oak, with coffee and mineral notes. The tannins are well-integrated, and the acidity is bright. Drink now through 2014. 55 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Char and chocolate, then a dollop of rum raisin and black cherry, and there is your nose. This version of Cirsion, one of our very favorite modern Riojas, is relatively soft, raisiny and simple, and for that it doesn’t quite rate with some of the past vintages, which were spectacular. But that doesn’t mean you won’t love the wine’s smooth texture, cocoa and baked berry flavors, and its overall generous character. Drink now through 2010.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 92