The 2010 Cirsion is pure Tempranillo from selected vines where the ripeness of the grapes give some special characteristics to their tannins, which they consider need a shorter aging time in wood and make for an exuberant and approachable wine. This is something they started in 1995 when they discovered that some plants produced grapes that had more wine than fruit aromas. With some time they decided to make a wine with these grapes where they thought “the wine is half-produced in the grape already,” and requires less time in oak to polish its tannins, something they cannot do every year. In 2008, there was no fruit with Cirsion character so they couldn’t produce it. As with the rest of Roda’s wines, it’s fermented in French oak vats, and malolactic is carried out in new French barrels where the wine matures for eight months. 2010 was a balanced year, with a longer ripening cycle and a delay in harvest of around 10 days compared with 2009. It’s dark, opaque, almost black in color. The backward nose is unyielding and tight, and requires time and air to display an array of ripe black fruit, dark spices, licorice and some lactic hints. The palate is extremely balanced, with clean acidity, ultra-fine, velvety tannins that make it round, intense and tasty, powerful but yet light. This is a great Cirsion. 7,000 bottles were made. Drink 2014-2030.
I couldn’t help but talk about the 2013 harvest with Roda’s director Agustin Santolaya, and he told me that 2013 is a complicated Atlantic vintage, with pitfalls and difficulties. They started harvesting around October 5, and by October 14 they had picked 25% of the grapes. When queried about the recent vintages, Agustin told me he favors 2010 from the trio of very good vintages 2009-2010-2011. They have slightly reduced the amount of new oak in the wines: it’s all used for Sela, all new for Cirsion and around 40% new oak for Roda and Roda I, that was reduced from 50%, which was the maximum used in the past. When they started they were considered modern, but they now are called the most classical from the modernists. 2013 marks their 25th anniversary, which they are celebrating with a number of vertical tastings around the world, with an exclusive cuvee of Cirsion 2012 that will contain 5% Graciano for the first time ever!
Imported by Kobrand, New York, NY; www.kobrandwine.com; and Plaza Cellars, San Juan, PR; tel. (787) 781-2070; www.plazacellars.com