The nose leaps out of the glass: fat, meaty and jammy, laden with ripe, seductive fruit. The palate impression is still young, firm and tight, with tart loganberry fruit that has a nice tang to it. It’s all wrapped in big, toasty layers of oak, with coffee, bitter chocolate and licorice running through the long finish. This one needs more time to knit itself together and open up. ——P.G.(11/15/2000)—— 93