The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon includes 8% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 4% Carmenere, and 2% Malbec in the blend. Purple-colored, it offers up notes of pain grille, pencil lead, Asian spices, black currants, and plum. It conceals enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years and the wine admirably balances power and elegance. Drink it from 2014 to 2030. Founded in 1978 by Gary Figgins, Leonetti Cellar remains a benchmark Washington winery. Shortly the winery will be in a position to achieve its goal of producing all of its wines from estate-grown Walla Walla vineyards. Gary’s son Chris has taken over much of the day-to-day operation of the winery and in particular the viticultural component. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

The Cabernet is sharply defined, with interesting citrus flavors defining the borders of the fruit. Lemon peel, candied pineapple and even grapefruit add lovely grace notes indicative of rich, clean, natural acids and a wine with plenty of glycerin. The stunning red fruits are polished and backed with details such as dried herb, and a tiny hint of mint. This may well be the most ageworthy Leonetti Cabernet ever made.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 96