The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. Deep crimson-colored, it displays a captivating bouquet of pain grille, tobacco, pencil lead, incense, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. Layered and opulent on the palate, it has tons of succulent black fruit, ripe tannin, impeccable balance, and an exceptionally lengthy finish. It will evolve for another 5-7 years and drink well through 2026. Gary Figgins and son, Chris, keep tweaking things in the vineyards and cellar as they move toward totally biodynamic farming. As usual, their wines are benchmarks against which others must be measured. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

This full-throttle Bordeaux blend is big, tight, and a bit hard but dense and concentrated. Here are blue and black fruits, layers of smoke and bitter chocolate, yet a lifted, floral scent is also there. In the finish it feels chewy and substantial, with threads of cedar, cinnamon and caramel woven among the darker, smoky notes. Give it plenty of breathing time.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 96