The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is a bigger, more structured wine. Dense, layered, and with a suave personality, it will continue to blossom for another 5-6 years and should see its 20th birthday in fine form. I don’t want to be responsible for any family disputes but it appears that Chris Figgins has taken over day-to-day operation of the venerable Leonetti Cellar from his father and winery founder, Gary Figgins. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

Dense, aromatic, layered and rich, this wine explodes from the glass with scents and flavors of concentrated berries, cassis, black cherry, and more. The vines have reached a mature stage that amplifies the fruit and keeps the generous barrel flavors in perfect balance. The barrel notes roll on in a chorus of toasty accents, and the finish is as good in the last minute as the first whiff from the glass.——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 98