The 2003 I Castagni. (40% Cabernet, 40% Syrah and 20% Teroldego) rounds out this strong set of offerings. Sweet, ripe and open, it is a highly attractive wine with showing plenty of up-front ripe, almost-candied fruit, currants and plums with a sheen of new oak and a plush, utterly engaging personality. It is made from a special 1.5 hectare plot with a fairly high density of 6,200 plants per hectare. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. This is a beautiful set of wines from Michele Satta, one of the pioneers in making high-class wines in the region. Only the 2004 Bolgheri Rosso was disappointing. Satta’s vineyards are located in and around Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci. Unlike many of his colleagues, Satta has chosen to emphasize Sangiovese, which he says remains his favorite varietal. Importer: At press time Michele Satta was in the process of changing importers.

This is made from a curious 70-20-10 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Teroldego (an indigenous grape of northern Italy). The results include black currant, lead pencil, green spice, natural rubber, smoked bacon and lingering blueberry. With its thick, chewy succulence, jackhammer tannins and amazing length, it will hold 20 years.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 94