I could not help breaking into a smile when I tasted the medium to dark ruby-colored 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Its extraordinarily spicy, cherry syrup-scented nose leads to a flavor profile that explodes on the palate with substantial quantities of cherry syrup, raspberry coulis, and Asian spices. Gary Figgins' Cabernets can be as boisterous as Olivier Humbrecht's Gewurztraminers. The purity and power of the sweet, spicy fruit flavors found in this wine are truly extraordinary. Additionally, it possesses an extremely long, candied, sweet tannin-filled finish. This decadent wine should be consumed between 2003-2012. Tel. (509) 525-1428.

Leonetti’s reserve, made entirely from grapes grown in the Walla Walla valley, is a distillation of everything that makes this the quintessential Washington state cult winery. Ripe, classy cassis fruit is seamlessly married to layers of oak; the barrel aging adding dimensions of toast and chocolate, espresso and cream, butterscotch and roasted nuts, to the extended finish. The blend is three quarters Cabernet, with the rest a 50/50 split of Merlot and Petit Verdot. In my experience Leonetti’s reserve wines are magnificent upon release, and should be enjoyed while still young. Just 576 cases produced.——P.G.(10/1/2001)—— 96