The flagship 2006 Reserve was raised in new French oak for 22 months. It is made up of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 11% Malbec, and 2% Merlot. Opaque purple/black in color, it exhibits aromas of rose petal, dried fruits, spice box, incense, black currant, and blackberry. Suave, velvety, elegant and powerful, all it needs is another 6-8 years in the cellar to reveal its full potential. Gary Figgins and son, Chris, keep tweaking things in the vineyards and cellar as they move toward totally biodynamic farming. As usual, their wines are benchmarks against which others must be measured. Tel. (509) 525-1428; www.leonetticellar.com

Though the Leonetti Reserve is a bigger and more substantial wine than the Cabernet, it initially seems to be less complex. But what’s not to like? The fruit is juicy and lush, a mix of black cherry, blackberry and some tart boysenberry, and the wine is well structured, with richness, depth and plenty of ripe tannin.——P.G.(9/1/2009)—— 93